Merry Christmas 2007

You may have all enjoyed a respite from the Flett family happenings, but for those who are curious here is an update to let you know how we have settled into life in London.

Our home in the very convenient Ealing has become the central force of all activities. It has a tube station at either end of the street, both on the Piccadilly line, eight stops West takes you to Heathrow, 8 stops East to South Kensington (the Science Museum, The National History Museum, The Victoria and Albert Museum). The buses also take us to the very pleasant areas of Chiswick ( Mr Darcy lives here and my favourite antique store, I regularly stalk the streets for a glimpse of either of these attractions) and Richmond ( shop till you drop!). The location is so convenient that I have not yet driven in London, and our trusty "People Mover " only gets taken out once a week for a drive to Tescos to do the grocery shopping, the biggest stress of the journey is hoping our carpark won't get pinched while we are out.

It is great having Anna and Kerry just around the corner and love the get-togethers with Anna for a coffee a movie or Sav Blanc at the pub. As Anna and Maya share the same Birthday we had a lovely party together...Anna and Kerry are stars at musical statues and I am sure it is a rare occasion for them to return home having overindulged in sugar and not wine....also shared a great night with the Stoves and mutual friends Fid and Hazel....Hazel entertained us on the piano with yet another of her talents...there is something wonderful about having your dinner accompanied by a piano recital...could not convince John to share his lovely tenor voice with this, even when the aphrodisiac effects of this promised.

The local schools are very oversubscribed and we had fears that Maya may not be accepted into a primary school, however we were very pleased that a place became available at 'the Grange". We are actually out of zone for this school, but it is only an 10 minute walk and across the road from the tube station. This can seem a long walk on rainy days- most mornings, with Maya, Will and Piper all in wet weather gear and groaning all the way, as there is no drop off place for cars. The School has just reopened after being completely rebuilt following a fire. Maya was very timid and reluctant to start this new school and sadly latched on to the most popular girl in her class as a friend...a recipe for heartache... however, 1 month on she has become friends with 'the popular girls' and had a marriage proposal from a boy.. Way to go girl!....it took me nearly thirty years to achieve this.

Will is loving the one on one time he now gets and there are many handy activities to fill our days. Our street is adjacent to a huge sprawling park, which has an excellent playground, and a playgroup with all sorts of facilities and activities for preschoolers.... and is free. On the corner is the library and our local cafe has a childrens area as well as making a good cappuccino...this is not an easy find in London....note to all....never...never....buy a coffee at tourist attraction in London....it is either instant or machine dispensed - and a barista is someone that works at the Old Bailey.....

Air New Zealand has done a deal with the Health Insurance company used.... they have done a deal with a local gym to us...basically the more we go the cheaper the subscription, and beyond this if you use it very regularly they send you a cheque at the end of the year.This is an attempt to get the English moving and reduce the burden on the NHS. It is also very flash, has everything...yoga, weights, swimming pool, beauty clinic, CRECHE and cafe ( have been known to swipe myself in just for a coffee when passing by). They even have 'splash Sunday' where you can take your kids and use the swimming pool. Fabulous. It is 20 minute walk from home and has become a big part of our life. It was certainly not on our agenda to become fit and healthy whilst in London, the great thing about getting older is that this is the first time in our lives we have actually joined a gym and been below average weight and above average fitness for our age.

I have become quite busy as I have joined the Association of Breastfeeding Mothers as a 'Mother Supporter', and have started my course in breastfeeding counselling. I had my first study day last week which was very interesting and very surprising. The team is great has a broad spectrum of women and it has been great to get to know new people and also challenge myself again. I am stunned by the situation in the UK and the care of women and infants postnatally, where unpaid volunteers without the supervision of a health professional offer advice and care for women and newborns. So far have heard no discussion in terms of 'Standards of Practice' "Guidelines' Bestpractice and 'Evidence Based Medicine'......pretty scary and made me proud of what we achieve in New Zealand. Inadvertently I have also become involved with the National Childhood Trust, this is an organsiation that also trains volunteers to assist mothers and infants antenatally and with breastfeeding. Our local cafe has a coffee morning were mothers can meet the NCT breast feeding counsellor, I have got to know her quite well and was invited to their AGM...don't think that could believe there was a breast nurse looking for some volunteer work who has also been involved in funding raising work.....well, I am now a member and we have our first fund raising day on the 11th December...guess what, I am taking prints of childrens hands and feet......some sleeping dogs will just not lie....
But I shall temper my fervour...my days of sweat and tears for fundraising not distant enough a memory for me and particularly for my husband...but am keen to learn as much as I can about these organisations whilst here and meet some great people.

I have also enrolled for studies in lymphoedema management for 2008...this has been very difficult to arrange as all the academic institutions require a large clinical aspect of the course...and as I am not practicing in the UK this is impossible for me to achieve. I have found an excellent course run by qualified practitioners near Birmingham and look forward to attending the courses next year. There are also all sorts of cancer courses and the European Breast Cancer Conference in Milan.....so much to do, so much to see and so much to learn....I feel myself back in my comfort zone again.

We have all been making the most of all the sights of London when we can...and the museums here are incredible, offer so much and are free...we have visited Windsor and Eton which is gorgeous and the castle stunning...I hope to get back there soon to really have a good look.
Anna gave me tickets to the British House and Garden Fair ...( my favorite magazine) and enjoyed a day with the ladies that lunch looking at lots of gorgeous and fabulous things. As far as fabulous things go....I have been very slow to visit the great shopping places of London, such as Kings Road and Oxford St, Harvey Nichols...John is happy about this, as the shopping in London can be a busy pastime in itself, but I must say I have been to lots of shops ..but have found very little that inspires me. Lets face it the 70's fashion that has made a comeback, only ever looked good on someone who was 20 and less than 50 kg's..(I have only seen one person like this so far in London.) It is easy to see can see why in the UK Trinny and Suzannah have made an industry out of 'Fashion Disasters' and also why the Charity Shop is to London what the $2 Shops are to Auckland...they are everywhere, and full of previous fashion disasters.....every ailment, group, organisation has a charity shop...there is even one for cats (did buy a fabulous leather skirt for 12 pounds though...so not all bad news!) We have taken the family to Harrods..this was to visit Santa's Grotto it was all decorated with Christmas decorations and lights and had the magical spirit that only Europe can provide at Christmas time.

I am very embarrassed to say ...after six months in a tiny village in France, without television and newspapers that you know you've been living in the back and beyond for too long and out of touch, when last week after living in London for 6 weeks exclaimed to John...is Tony Blair no longer the Prime Minister here?....apparently this has been the case for sometime....sadly even after reading English newspapers it had taken me a month to discover this....but I do know who is winning 'Strictly Come Dancing' and' The X-Factor'...as this is all that is on TV or in the newspapers. They are celebrity crazy in this country..and a celebrity does not have to be someone with talent or achievements...Big Boobs on page three will suffice..

John is enjoying work from our new base...which is sooooooooooooooooooo much easier for him. With Christmas lists completed he may now have some time to enjoy his layovers in LA or Hong Kong. He heads to the east tonight and returns Wednesday, we are then packing up the people mover and heading to the North East for the weekend. Can't wait. Really looking forward to seeing the family again, and some of the old haunts ..the Tynemouth Antiques Market, the Priory and the sea and gorgeous countryside...and of course some good Fish and Chips which believe it or not have not found here in London yet.....

Our lives become much like everyone else's as we settle into life in London and find ourselves working around school hours and rosters and studies. We are loving all we have seen and look forward to exploring so much more until we have more news, love to you all, a Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday time.

(Double click image for better clarity)

London - The First Few Weeks!

We are all settling into life in West London.

Big events in the first few weeks have included such milestones as Maya's Fifth Birthday and her first day at her new school (though thankfully for her not on the same day!); and visits to Windsor, The Natural History Museum (now forever known as 'The dinosaur Museum'), Hamley's ('Six Floors of Toys!') and the Princess Diana Memorial Playground in Hyde Park.

Final Thoughts on Montlaur, France

Well, the Flett's have had the most incredible six months living in this Petite Village in the South of France. It is now time to say Au revoir...and there are many things here that will be sadly missed....

I will miss the charm, seclusion and simplicity of this small village of less than 600 people in France.

I will miss the harsh, rocky dry landscape that looks that it should belong closer to Jerusalem than Toulouse.

I will miss the endless fields of vines, and the privilege I have had to watch them throughout all seasons, finally to witness their leaves turn crimson and the harvest of the fruit.

I will miss the soft light of the late afternoon that changes from harsh and turns everything pastel.

I will miss living in a town that only has a general store, a bakery, a butcher,a pharmacy and a hairdresser's, and one frenchman that speaks english.

I will miss the closeness of neighbours, both in proximity and community spirit, and the acknowledgement received on encounter with a look in the eye and a friendly "Bonjour".

I will miss the loud speakers in the town that plays wartime tunes, and the Marseillaise (although never a complete song) to signal a public annoucement- that I can never understand.

I will miss the church bells, that have been my constant companion and toll every hour and half hour...with a concerto at 7am and 7pm

I will miss the Gorges Du Congoust that winds between the towns, it's beautiful river and scenery and the death defying drive required through this.

I will miss swimming in the rivers, warm and clean enough to indulge.

I will miss Carcassonne Castle, it's walls and turrets always provoking a sigh of delight, and a sight I will never tire off.

I will miss the diversity of landscapes, from dry rocky Corbieres, to alpine Montsegur, to the coast of Narbonne.

I wil miss the fascinating history of this region. The Cathars, the Grail, the War.

I will miss the wonderful people of Montlaur. Our elderly neighbour Monsieur Bazaga, who endeared himself to Maya and Will.

Vivianne who spoilt them with treats and brought me freshly grown vegetables, The Mayor, who always included us in events and helped whenever needed. Phillipe the grocer, who tested and teased my french and who I added hilarity to his day ( even on departure thanking him and his "husband" ..ooops), Precilla the hairdresser, the school, and our dear vintner Christain who made Montlaur all the more special teaching us it's history and the mysteries of winemaking and sharing the profits of his craft with us.

I will miss our newly made English friends, Martin, Sally, and my tutor Una, our nextdoor neighbours Sarah and Mike...who helped us learn the region, shared the knowledge they had and enthusiastically accepted tales of our own discoveries.

I will miss the excitement of Vide Greniers, the possibilities of forgotten treasures and exceptional bargains, as well as the villages these markets took us to that may otherwise remained unexplored.

I will miss the French language, and my slowly progressing comprehension and confidence.

To all our friends who made huge efforts and great expense to share our adventure. Sharing the experience made it all the more special for us. We will not leave France unchanged and I do not think anyone who left here, left quite the same, but was richer in someway for the time shared .

To Debbie and Terry and the fateful events that led us to them and to Montlaur, and who opened their beloved and charming house to us.



I Will Not miss the dog pooh that is everywhere here...not our girls.................

I Will Not miss the twenty + scorpions in our house we terminated, the scitterish large centipede like bugs with huge feelers ( eeeeek!), the spider in the bathroon the size of my hand.....


If you would like to see a very entertaining slideshow of Montlaur that my nextdoor neighboor created ( all those who have visited will totally GET this)
please visit this link...hysterical.....there are two to choose from ..Montlaur: The Old days ..is my favourite

http://www.slide.com/r/WIPzanUHwz_q5o1o_0GhG4t3N7PWh4U6?previous_view=mscd_embedded_url&view=original


Lots of love Denise

And So To London!

Well the adventure and journey continues....................

The house in Montlaur was quickly and efficently packed and cleaned ...we have become well versed at this...and the blanket of dull, cold grey over Montlaur helped with the impending farewells. There were many of these, along with the exchange of gifts and contact numbers. Our last evening was spent with our nextdoor neighbours and was very pleasant and sadly a little late to discover all that we had in common.

We packed the people mover (thanks Suzie and Dezza for the Postie Plus bags)...and although I have never prided myself on mathematical ability, I was surprised as to how accurate my calculation of possession + French purchases had so exactly equated to the volume available. In fact, I do not think I could have fitted a single orange into the van once packed and family boarded.

We had the van serviced the day before by our esteemed local mechanic, Mr Foucher, who had repaired with French ingenuity our smoking vehicle on arrival to Montlaur. The van has hummed ever since, but opening the hood does have some similarity to opening an old box of 'mechano'. For us that was of little concern, we were more interested in reliability than methodology...and had a feeling of regained confidence after visiting him again.

Our planned journey from the South of France, was a little unusual, but did take in two fascinating and remote places that I had always wished to visit, however, their geographical situations always making this unfeasible. Lourdes and the Guggenheim in Bilbao. To achieve this we planned to cross the Pyrenees, visit one of France's most Southern towns Lourdes. Continue West to Spain, further west to Bilbao, check out the Guggenheim, then further west to the city of Santander where we would catch the carferry to Plymouth in Southern England. We had 28 hours to do this.

We were off! Sadly the drizzle turned to Auckland-like rain, and our hopes of the panorama of the Pyrennees dashed. It took about 3 hours to reach the alpine town of Lourdes, and entered through a plethora of hotels - it seems that Lourdes is to the mountains as Las Vegas is to the desert.

It is difficult not to make harsh judgements of this spot when driving past rows and rows of religious merchandising shops'. We found a carpark, a miracle in itself, and I am sure the last in town, from here it was a simple walk down to the river, grotto, and cathedral. I was totally stunned and awed by what I witnessed here. The river frontage was amassed by rows and rows of specially designed weather proof wheelchairs and stretchers, the occupants of various ages and ailments patiently waiting their entry to the pools of holy water and blessings. The procession of traditionally clad nurses and their charges did not stop but seemed to continue without respite.

We were assisted by very helpful custodians with the pushchair to the grotto and touched the grotto walls, smoothed by the millions of hands that had done this before us. Because of the rain, it did seem that the walls were weeping this holy elixir from the vision of the Madonna statue above us, it was hard not to be accepting of all things possible at this spot.

After our picnic lunch visited the cathedral above the grotto. Magnificent. My passion for Byzantine style mosaics overwhemingly satisfied by the series of asps covered in detailed pictures using this technique. My senses now fully overloaded. Overall, our impression of the place was not one of desperation or tackiness but more of a collective human connection to something greater than ourselves. Although not a Catholic I felt I had been humanly involved in this experience. It was pouring with rain by now and we raced back to the car all soaked through, but no one complaining as our small sufferings seemed inconsequentual to what we had just witnessed.

It was about another 5 hours to Bilbao, and although all damp and crowded, the kids were amazing and uncomplaining. John and I both wearied from months of traveling, were not our normal, efficient and decisive selves, and found it difficult this time to action a hotel for the night. Bilbao, as I had already been informed is a large dirty city, without much to offer but the Guggenheim...I would have to agree with this. We headed out of the city, towards the coast and after a quick visit to a seaside town on the basque coast, (which offered very little), stopped at a restaurant/ B&B, on a road in the middle of nowhere in the countryside. It was late, they could take us, and for the first time ever, dinner, breakfast and accomodation came way under budget.

The next morning headed straight for the Guggenheim. After yesterday, seeing what would epitomise human spirituality, today took in the equivalent to human culture.
Frank Gehry's work has captivated me for years so I was very excited to visit a great piece of his architecture. The Guggenheim was all lines and fluidity covered in titantium half a millimeter thick.
I may not be an engineer or an architect, but, there is something missing in this Gehry design and should I ever meet Frank Gehry I would have to offer him some advice....."Hey Frank...love the Guggenheim...we all love it...we all want to see it....but there is something lacking...it's called a CARPARK....you know, a wide open space, sometimes underground, sometimes revenue generating, where people wishing to see an attraction can leave their cars"
Enough said................................

Time was becoming tight and it was a dash to Santander...much prettier than Bilbao, filled the car with petrol (to avoid those UK prices) and boarded the Pont Aven- our ship that would deliver us to England. This is a fantastic way to travel...especially with kids, a dog and an overflowing car. We had our own little cabin, complete with ensuite. There are restaurants, theatres, soft play areas, entertainment stewards for the kids and even a swimming pool....hung out by the pool in the afternoon and made the most of all these things. Kids had a great time, and exhausted crashed early to our bunks. The weather calm, sea smooth and the gentle pitch and roll reminescent of those waterbed years of the 90's.

Next morning picked up Piper from the ships kennels she had had to overnight in...Not Happy!, and without event passed customs, all, including the dog accepted...phew!
We had arrived and headed non-stop to London.

John had done a terrific job finding our new home in Ealing London....we could want no more. House lovely, around the corner from a huge park, with playgrounds, and a playgroup area. There is a library around the corner, cafes and restaurants everywhere, and of course my lifelong friend Anna is a 5 minute walk away.

Trading a small French village for one of the worlds largest cities will take some adjustment. I have exchanged rows of vines for rows of houses, French cuisine for every taste and flavour the world can offer, a village for 10 million people, tolling bells for Heathrow's approach, museums, theatres, shops, historical sites for simplicity. But we are all ready now for the excitment and opportunities offered.

I must say a very special thank you to my husband, who endured fatigue, 3 train rides and Ryan Air to commute to and from London, imposing on strangers (now friends) for London accommodation ( thanks for making this possible), time away from his family, endless visitors, and budget blow outs for yet another one of his wife's crazy ideas.............thank you, thank you, thank you it was marvelous.

I ...I mean we...have many more adventures and goals planned whilst in London....

Thanks for all the great feedback on our tales, and will give you all a break now from our summer adventures and look forward to hearing yours.

Under A Tuscan Sun

Well as you will have realised, the Fletts life is never dull and there is always something happening. This week John arrived into Carcassonne along with our great friends Suzie and Derek and 7 year old son Luca. Maya and Will were fit to burst ...and I was relieved for the company after 5 days home alone and a respite from the constant question of 'How many more sleeps before they arrived".

The Heard's had stopped in LA for a Disney experience and then into London. It was great to offer them the convenience of our house in London, and they made the most of their 48 hours, defying jetlag and taking in the sights of London, by Double decker bus around the city, and boat on the Thames River. They were very fortunate to have John as an escort and guide to Stansted for the flight to Carcassonne as he joined them on this flight back to France.

We gave them the 'Greatest Hits' tour into Montlaur, passed The Cite of Carcassonne, and through the wine region of Corbieres. That afternoon John took Suzie and Derek for a coffee at LaGrasse, and they strolled this pretty village and toured The Abbey. The plan that night was to all have a dinner out at the castle, but Will decided to have a melt down...and Mummy decided to discipline (see, I can do it!) and so it was vegemite toast for me.

Next day was a biggy, and guests got to choose one of several suggested itineraries....Itinerary one chosen: Rennes le Chateau for mystery tour, Rennes le Bain for a soak and as many antique stores as possible inbetween...right.... off we went .....stopped once again at the Brocantes into Limoux...or should I say "Broken" as these antique warehouses have bits and pieces stored indoors and outdoors, rain and shine, and I do not think one item is complete. Even so, some pretty cool large pieces, including upholstered bedheads and beautiful wardrobes...did buy a couple more Lourdes Holy water bottles ( pure kitsch).

Suzie and Derek, I think, did purchase the best piece of Jesus Junk seen whilst in France, at an antique store in Limoux. I had spotted this before with Sharon and we commented on how this crucifix was one of the best we had seen, but was 'trop cher" when asked for the price as told 30 Euro. It is a black standing crucifix about 2 feet tall, with Jesus in silver, below him is a silver skull and crossbone. Apparently this was used in Exorcisms and is from the late 1800's...very cool and quite rare, and Derek sealed the deal at 12 euros's ...way to go....was sad I had not picked this up myself as would have been very useful when dealing with my son...oh well, will just have to watch Supernanny instead!

That night had a lovely relaxing meal at home. The next day the Heards had a big day and were picking up their rental car and heading for the Italian border, from there onto Tuscany to the farm house they have rented for a week..............originally we had planned to join them on this voyage, but sadly John's leave had not been available for this time, however, John had come down with an ailment that left him unable to fly, but able to holiday...and so we decided to gatecrash their vacation.

So as a fabulose and unexpected surprise my wonderful husband was taking me to Tuscany to spend my Birthday 'Under a Tuscan Sun' .What more could a girl ask for. (All husband's reading this ...please do not send Hate Mail ). So it was a quick pack whilst the boys picked up the rental car and by lunch time we were heading East towards the Riviera again. After our previous excursion here decided to head to the quietest seafront town that was also close to the A8. That would have to be Menton.

Menton is the most Eastern town on the French Riviera and right next to Monaco and the Italian border. Corrine had taken me here when I visited her in Monaco a decade or so ago. I had loved it and so made the suggestion. It paid off big time. It was easy to find, get into, and we found a hotel, although very little left at 7pm on a Friday night for 7 people and a dog. It was a street back from the sea, and although a little more pricey than estimated...all and all very good. Walked to the seafront and had a much needed meal of wine and pizzas under a clear sky under a waning moon. The next day walked the promenade and were all stunned by the beautiful colour palette of this town. All buildings in different hues of pastel pinks, greys and apricots contrasted against the sea and the sun, craddled by the dominating rockface of mountain cliffs ...breathtaking. Found the incredible produce market and stocked up on some supplies....next stop Lucca...Tuscany

Ascended the hills back onto the A8 pay road passed the first tunnel and found ourselves in Italy, there were another 154 tunnels ( I counted! ) on this dizzying road to La Spezia on the coast. From the highway overlooking the Ligurian Coast the towns looked decidedly shabby compared to the French Riveria ...but we were to find later that this was most definitely not the case. From La Spezia headed inland into Tuscany and the beautiful region of Lucca we had left the landscape of vineyards and pastels behind and replaced this with olive trees and a pallette of ochres...BEAUTIFUL.

Susan and Derek had investigated and researched thoroughly this region, both mastering the language and discovering a wonderful house to rent. The Ai Linchi Farmhouse. This is situated at the foot of the hills of S.Alessio, along the route of the "Road of Wine", just 4 km away from the centre of Lucca. The house has been reconstructed from an ancient cowshed with hayloft and converted into two large houses. Whilst staying we shared the house with two very pleasant German couples from Cologne who were renting the other house. Ai Linchi is situated amongst farmland and has its own enormous swimming pool, plus the added charm of local church who's tolling bells helped us to mark the passage of time. Arrived at about 4pm. The kids had been tremendous and had been promised a swim in the pool on this hot perfect day. The house was huge and everyone was very happy.

On Sunday we headed into the city of Lucca. Lucca is the largest Italian city with its medieval city wall still intact, the wall is infact wide enough to walk and cycle on and is infact a pedestrian promenade. Within the walls are houses and shops, cathedrals and the central piazza, the Piazza dell'Anfitteatro.This continues to have traces of the ancient roman amphitheatre and most of the restaurants are located here making it a great place to dine and watch people coming and going. It is an easy walk ( although you need a map) around the the city, and you can catch a bus called 'The Clap'around the town, however, having spent most of my adult life avoiding 'catching the clap' preferred to walk. Enjoyed a full day here and raced back to the house for 4pm for the Rugby World Cup. We were in holiday in Italy, from our house in France, watching the All Blacks, against Scotland, with a German commentary...very cosmopolitain. Enjoyed the slaughtering!

Next day the Heards and John headed to Pisa, I had previously been and so opted to give the kids a car free day and stay at the house with Maya and Will and enjoy the farm and pool. We all planned to have big day on Tuesday and catch the train into Florence and enjoy this incredible city, on serious consideration figured that the busy cobbled streets of Florence with its cultural galleries were no place for a 2 year old and 4 year old and a pushchair, and so decided we should play tag with this day. John, Susan, Derek and Luca caught the train to Florence and had a huge day exploring the Uffuzi Gallery, Science Museum, Cathedral and the Duoma. I stayed by the pool with Maya and Will and explored the local countryside and Supermarket. Wednesday was my turn and the team had prebooked my ticket into the Uffizi, Susan joined me, and I finally was able to see the glorious Botticelli's that I had been unable to see when last in Florence. The girls headed for the San Lorenzo markets (of course) and maybe I am getting older, or maybe I have all that I need, but they seemed quite disappointing, and much to our husbands satisfaction did little retail damage. Returned home to a wonderful birthday surprise of party, balloons and cake, and a superb dinner of roasted vegetables, salmon and pesto orzo created by Suzie and Derek very pleasant. Sadly for the boys and the kids, the weather had turned and the planned day by the pool had been aborted...the weather continued to worsen, and I am not sure if this is a menacing omen for the year ahead but my Bithday arrived with a huge electrical storm. I opened the shutters and went to bed and watched natures drama unfold.

The drama however, turned into a saga and the stormed lasted some 36 hours. Our planned day in the Cinque Terre was delayed and we took an excursion into the Tuscan hills and thought a good place to avoid the storm would be to visit one of the ancient Grottos in the mountains, The Grotta Del Vento. This enormous cave was very exciting for the children and the drive through the mountains spectacular. Following this visited a nearby historical monastery called the Calomine Hermitage. The church and monk quarters underground into the shear rockface and concelled by the 18th-century facade. A real treasure, the priest and curator bonded with Susan and Derek and took them on a personal tour of the monastery. He was very impressed with Derek's Italian- so efforts paid off. John and I took the children to the adjacent restaurant and dined on trout fished from the trout farm in the gorge below us. On the way home more treasures discovered in a eagerly discovered antique store. That night John and I were keen for a night in together and Suzie and Derek headed into Lucca to a recommended restaurant that didn't disappoint.

The week was disappearing...the rain was not....the Cinque Terre delayed again, and so headed again to Lucca and enjoyed a relaxed day strolling this historical place.

Saturday, the sun looked promising, packed up and prepared for a very big day. Drove West and past the Cinque Terre into the very beautiful Italian Riveria town Santa Margherita Ligure. This town was about an hour train ride North West of the Cinque Terre. Within an hour of arrival like something from the "Amazing Race" had found a carpark, hotel, nappy changed and was on the train heading for the first of the five bays in the Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre is 18 kilometres of sheer rocky coastline, five little villages are built into the rocks between the beach and hills, century old footpaths and mule tracks wind about 500-1000 ft above the sea, leading between olive groves, vineyards and orchards connecting the villages. It is virtually inaccessible by car, although a short train ride can connect you between the villages, however most people walk the track which takes about 5 hours. We started at the first village Riomaggiore and walked to the second, Manarola...stunning...the 2 hour walk to next Corniglia proved too arduous for the pushchair so turned back and took the train directly to the last village Monterossa, here we had a hot chocolate overlooking the sea and a quick stroll on the beach. Suzie Derek and Luca completed the track, which meant a steady pace before darkness came...it was more arduous and steeper with many steps than we had predicted so pleased we had given in to reason. They were very pleased to have completed this amazing pieces of Italian coastline and rewarded themselves with a recommended restaurant at Monterossa. Met at breakfast the next day, and after a quite look around the beautiful and very affluent town of S. Margherita Ligure and its neighbouring town Portofino, the Fletts started the long journey back to France and Montlaur...a 7 hour car journey .....

The Heards made the most of every opportunity and had an extra night in Provence in a pretty town of San Remy de Provence, if your looking for a decaying chateau full of lost grandeur, and with every creepy cliche your imagination could ask for, then the hotel they stayed in, Chateau Rousson is the place to stay! They also managed to squeeze in an excursion to the Pont du Gard.

We all appreciated being able to share this time with Susie, Derek and Luca - especially Maya and Will - and thank them very much for letting us gatecrash their holiday at the last minute.

The Heards arrived back last night, to a gloomy 'Montlaur in the clouds', and we were privileged to have our new wine making friend Christain join us for dinner, he was able to add a richness of culture and knowledge to our evening - so very special.

Today John, Susan, Derek and Luca head to London, from here the Heards head to LA, then home to Auckland. John has 2 days in London doing Emergency Procedures Training then back for packing and house cleaning as we leave for London next Wednesday the 10th October via the Pyrennees, Lourdes, Bilbao and Santander, catching the carferry from here to Plymouth England. This will be our last long car journey in a very long time and as much as we have loved and relished all we have seen and every opportunity presented, we look forward to a quieter and less busy time on the roads in the UK.

Will keep you all updated with a progress report and farewell note from Montlaur.

In The Last Few Weeks...

Well the hectic pace continues here in the Languedoc. Mid August was festival time again in Montlaur, with a National Religious holiday resulting in a day of entertainment based in Montlaur. This time it was our turn for a village Vide Grenier....we did not want to miss out.... so a sort through the kids toys and clothes and contributions from Kayleanne (in desperate hopes of achieving her 20kg bagage limit) was ther start of our first commercial venture in France. John made our stall all the more enticing with some French football Strips from Hong Kong. Maya and Will embraced the whole experience with excitiment and commitment and had great plans for the anticpated profits.

I have to say the Vide Grenier was not as large as many I have attended over the last months, and the level of junk/treasures nowhere near what the Minervois has to offer...but we had a great day. Sold almost all stock and enjoyed the free coffee and croissants offered to vendors.

The other features of the day provided by the village was a huge tank of live fish placed under the bridge as a fishing challenge, a dirtbike course in a large square, and of course a band and plenty of wine and local cuisine.

That night the whole village was invited for a large sit down dinner in the local park. They miracuously served a wonderful three course meal with regional wines. There was a band, dancing and lots of singing, the whole family went and we had a wonderful night. It was a wonderful glimpse into the lives and traditions that a tourist would never see, a great privilege.

John was soon off again...a bit reluctantly to start his month of call from the UK. He has been living in our new home in Ealing, which I have not seen yet but know he will have in great shape for the rest of the family when we arrive there in October.

Saturday, Sharon arrived after a very long 36 hours into Toulouse. Her arrival was midnight so the kids thought a late dinner at McDonalds and a long night drive a great adventure, with a year long absence the girls had lots to catch up on and so did not see our beds until the wee hours. We punished ourselves the next day as our next village LaGrasse had a Vide Grenier...which was great and I just had to introduce Sharon to the joys of this pastime (she has embraced this with a fervour that only another treasure hunter can truely appreciate). Montlaur was having yet another luncheon and so it was a race back to the Foyer (local hall) for a three course lunch, wine (of course) and children's games. Sharon got to know the local villagers very well, and her french poured forth at a pace that matched the wine. She had arrived!

Her first week in the Languedoc was full on and challenged us in several ways. The weather did not play its part and dropped and incredible 20 degrees plunging us into the teens with accompanied drizzle. We headed to the mysterious Rennes Le Chateau (rumoured to once occupy the Holy Grail) and the hot pools at Rennes le Bain (about 2 hours away) a favourite spot of mine. Sharon a 'Holy Blood, Holy Grail' reader was very keen to see this spot, however, the mysterious Rennes Le Chateau proved even MORE mysterious as her wallet disappeared whilst there...Holy Shit!

We were very pragmatic about this and went through all necessary processes of cancelling everything...the MOST mysterious part about this was that the next day we received a phone call from the chateau to say they had found her wallet, complete with cards and cash....amazing!...we headed back the following day and had the exitement whilst purchasing the book of the mystery of Rennes Le Chateau, getting to meet the author, who owns the cafe/bar there. We have an open invitation for a tour in the future and it was very exciting to hear the legend first hand. We celebrated our good fortune with a swim in the thermal river...aaaaaahhhh as we watched the return of the sun

Other activites this week included, a drive to Lezignan for the market and lunch on the canal at Ventenac in the Minervois, taking Sharon to Carcassonne castle, complete with knights and jousting (much appreciated), and on Sunday, we had a huge day, firstly going to a large vide grenier at Cavenac, onto to the Chateau Saisacc ruins for a picnic lunch in the hills and then to Castelnaudry for the Cassoulet festival. The children were fantastic - now very used to the travelling life - and of course a few small purchases at the market go a long way!

This frenetic pace was starting to take its toll so slowed the pace a little the following week, with a couple of days spent working on our tans at the beach at Carcassonne Plage, lunch at the castle, some shopping in Carcassonne centre ville, and a visit to the beautiful La Grasse Abbey. Dropped Sharon and a bicycle at the canal at Trebes for a day of cycling on the canal. Returned to pick her up at five o'clock to find her accompanied by about 20 Kiwi's from various boats crusing the canal...all getting very merry at the bar on the canal...they came from all over New Zealand from Whangarei to Queenstown. Don't know how she found them all and I was literally booed as I dragged her away...but had to get home as we had dinner guests imminently arriving. Our English neighbour Martin, and newly arrived neighbour Sally were coming for dinner. Had a great night with many interesting stories of their adventures in France.

Prior to Sharon's arrival I was in the process of formulating an Evil Plan to arrange a rendezvous with the village's most eligible batchelor, our local vintner. Christian, a born and bread Montlaurian. He makes the most wonderful rose and even better reds. He has 11 hectares of vines on the outskirts of the village. He is also around his late forties, tall, attractive and a gentleman.......tick, tick, tick......Sadly for the first two weeks of Sharon's stay he was out of town, but once I had established he had returned...as any good friend would do, I started sending Sharon on a almost daily pilgrimage to his Cave for a couple of bottles of wine. It only took 4 bottles before my work was done and the wheels were in motion....however....the next episode of our adventures was about to temporarily divert us from Christian's world, as John was finally (after three weeks in London) scheduled to return to Carcassonne, and the girls were ready to some child free touring over the border to Spain.

I had begun to wonder over John's three week absence in the UK if he had in fact left me, but neglected to inform me of this ...or was perhaps too fearful to do so....(though I had heard of his forays to Prince and Dave Dobbyn concerts!) So when I arrived at the airport after dropping Sharon at the castle for some shopping to find no husband eagerly waiting for me, my concerns began to grow even further - or was U2 playing in London that night?

In typical French style there was a shoulder shrug and little else to explain and determine what had happened and what planned action there was in relation to Ryan Air's schedule that day. My improving French established that he was ...perhaps ...arriving...around four thirty. I was picking Sharon up at the castle at two thirty so took the children to one of the worlds most scenic playgrounds at the foot of the Carcassone Castle Cite...gorgeous. After picking up the Kamikaze shopper, went into centre ville for some more planned purchases (thank god we have a van).....arrived to the airport to find delayed flight now upgraded to a cancelled flight...............
The girls planned departure for Spain in the morning beginning to look ominously fragile.

Raced home as pretty sure John will have been trying all day to call me....mental note to add 'purchase of cellphone' to my list of 'to do's..........arrived in the door at ten to five and called John....he was relieved as had 10 minutes to secure a seat on a flight to Girona Spain leaving in an hour. Children fed and in bed at 8pm headed out the door for the 2 hour drive to Spain to pick up John....picked him up closer to eleven..and without even turning off the engine headed back for France. The drive home a lot faster with lots to catch up on after a three week absence, however some days are just plain difficult as on the fast route home through Fabrezan the road to Montlaur closed and at 2am in darkness and in the countryside tried to find an alternative countryroad to take us to our warm bed and much need toilet. Finally made it home and had 5 hours in bed before up and on the road and heading with Sharon TO SPAIN!

Headed zombie-like to the border, but one our english neighbour Sally had recommended we stop at the French seaside town Couilliere, this is about the most southern fishing village/town in France and was gorgeous. It was the home of Matisse, had a castle and fortress like harbour, and would be an absolute nightmare in peak season, but on this glorious sunny September day was absolutely perfect. Had a lovely seafood lunch by the sea and put on our bathers and soaked up the sea, sun and ambiance....feeling rejuvenated already. At about 5 pm departed and in a more determined fashion headed down the coastal road into Spain and on to another glorious seaside town Cadaques.

Arrived a couple of hours later, my companion a shade of green from the winding coastal road. Cadaques looked very busy with a steady stream of traffic heading into the one, winding road over the hills into the port....I was a bit concerned about accommodation and headed straight to the Tourist Information...to my relief and satisfaction the Hotel I had tried to book in to at Port Lligat had rooms avialable ...so back into the car and a further 10kms to this quiet seaside spot that harbours Dali's home on the seafront a couple of hotels and little else. Idealic. Freshened up and back to the buzzing Cadaques for dinner, a walk on the promenade and the added unexpected treat of a concert of traditional Spainish singers ( very mariachi like) on the beachfront....too perfect to describe.

The next day was a relaxed one, we visited Dali's incredible home and felt inspired and energised. To build on this we spent the afternoon lying by the pool at the hotel...the only guests to optimise this facility. The pool shut at 4 as preparations for a wedding that night underway. So the girls now well rested headed inland to the town Figures to visis Dali's museum....wow! It was mind blowing and thank you Katherine for visiting this in July and inspiring me to see both of these incredible places of Dali's life and works!

Sunday, rose early, after only a couple hours sleep due to previuosly mentioned Spainish wedding.A busy day planned heading back to France with a deadline to pick up our friend David arriving from London into Carcassone at 4pm. We took an adventurous route from Perpignan which took us past 2 of the '5 son Cathar Castles' Queribus and Puilaurens, breathtaking! Also stopped at a couple of brocantes...who will have been pleased they opened on a Sunday as 'some' purchases acquired. Our information that there was a vide grenier at Quillan proved to be inaccurate and after trying to stop for lunch at 3 restaurants for lunch but turned away as after 2:30 - feeling ready to reach the airport and get home....which along with our new guest we did.

On arrival home Christian was awaiting for our return at the house with John, plans were made for a dinner party the following night..and the next day Sharon and David toured Carcassonne Castle whilst the Fletts hung out at Carcassonne Plage. Then it was a race to the Supermarket and home to get dinner ready for 8 people. Christian and our neighbour Martin arrived, we all had a thoroughly entertaining evening on the roof terrace, with excellent food, company and an exquisite 16 year vintage Syrah provided by Christian from his personal cellar...romance blossomed and there was one less guest the next morning to share breakfast with.

On return to full guest complement, Sharon, David and I headed off for a huge day. John kindly played Dad and so that gave the trio an opportunity to really go for it. On Christian's advice we headed to the town Mirepoix, in another region called Ariege.This is a very scenic and almost Barvarian/Alpine-style village..had a pleasant lunch here then onto the very small village called Val where there is a wonderfully unique church carved from a cave in the hillside..an attraction that only a local could guide you too, making it all the more special. From here we continued south to the most signifcant Cathar castle Montsegur. Imposing, impressive and tragic, this being the last bastion of the Cathar faith and were 220 cathars were matyred on the stake. The walk up to the castle itself requires a little faith, and slower than usual with two heavy smokers...GIVE IT UP! We had visited earlier in our stay with Kayleanne and the children on a misty, atmospheric day. This time it was a beautiful clear day giving another perspective. After Montsegur we followed the circuit to Carcassonne on the way stopping at Rennes Le Chateau to show David this incredible place. Very luckily the author we had previously met popped into the bar and we were once again able to be entertained by his knowledge of the region and excellent sense of humour. Books were again purchased and signed....a very lucky and exciting opportunity. We briefly stopped at Rennes Le Bain and had hoped for a hot soak but the locals turn off the hot spring at five so were out of luck. The Day disappearing and a good idea to head for home....phew!

John, Maya, Will and Piper had excitement to match - well almost - with a close encounter with a snake down by the 'stream' that runs through the village. Maya especially finding this exciting as she mentioned that "if I'd gone with mummy I would have missed seeing the snake!" There was a funeral in town so John spent the next 30 minutes answering questions related to death and dying. Thankfully with parents who had met whilst working in a cemetery (explains a lot!) he had sufficient answers.

Wednesday, required a slower pace after the previous day. Sharon and David were leaving France tomorrow and so a gentle day planned. The weather perfect and we headed to one of France's 10 most beautiful villages - our neighbouring village LaGrasse. Our guests took the Fletts out for lunch, and then toured the village and Abbey, we blissed out on our mellow mood from the carafe with lunch and soaked in the natural beauty of the LaGrasse river adjacent to the 800year old abbey..Maya, Will and Piper thoroughly enjoying the warm river - what more could you want!

Sharon and David's last evening was occupied by a guided tour by Christian, of a mountain walk of local scupltures followed by another dinner on the roof (fab of course).
Martin popped in and stayed and we had a very impromptu dinner party.....The new romance of Sharon and Christian giddy and poignant as farewells imminent!

The morning resulted in a rush of packing and farewells. Sharon miraculously packing all into suitcases although additional postie plus bag required. John drove the distance to Toulouse airport ..and once again our little house in Montlaur quiet....but not for long as our next visitors Suzie Derek and Luca are to accompany John from London to Carcassonne next Wednesday.......so watch this space for some more adventures!