Thursday, 13 September 2007

In The Last Few Weeks...

Well the hectic pace continues here in the Languedoc. Mid August was festival time again in Montlaur, with a National Religious holiday resulting in a day of entertainment based in Montlaur. This time it was our turn for a village Vide Grenier....we did not want to miss out.... so a sort through the kids toys and clothes and contributions from Kayleanne (in desperate hopes of achieving her 20kg bagage limit) was ther start of our first commercial venture in France. John made our stall all the more enticing with some French football Strips from Hong Kong. Maya and Will embraced the whole experience with excitiment and commitment and had great plans for the anticpated profits.

I have to say the Vide Grenier was not as large as many I have attended over the last months, and the level of junk/treasures nowhere near what the Minervois has to offer...but we had a great day. Sold almost all stock and enjoyed the free coffee and croissants offered to vendors.

The other features of the day provided by the village was a huge tank of live fish placed under the bridge as a fishing challenge, a dirtbike course in a large square, and of course a band and plenty of wine and local cuisine.

That night the whole village was invited for a large sit down dinner in the local park. They miracuously served a wonderful three course meal with regional wines. There was a band, dancing and lots of singing, the whole family went and we had a wonderful night. It was a wonderful glimpse into the lives and traditions that a tourist would never see, a great privilege.

John was soon off again...a bit reluctantly to start his month of call from the UK. He has been living in our new home in Ealing, which I have not seen yet but know he will have in great shape for the rest of the family when we arrive there in October.

Saturday, Sharon arrived after a very long 36 hours into Toulouse. Her arrival was midnight so the kids thought a late dinner at McDonalds and a long night drive a great adventure, with a year long absence the girls had lots to catch up on and so did not see our beds until the wee hours. We punished ourselves the next day as our next village LaGrasse had a Vide Grenier...which was great and I just had to introduce Sharon to the joys of this pastime (she has embraced this with a fervour that only another treasure hunter can truely appreciate). Montlaur was having yet another luncheon and so it was a race back to the Foyer (local hall) for a three course lunch, wine (of course) and children's games. Sharon got to know the local villagers very well, and her french poured forth at a pace that matched the wine. She had arrived!

Her first week in the Languedoc was full on and challenged us in several ways. The weather did not play its part and dropped and incredible 20 degrees plunging us into the teens with accompanied drizzle. We headed to the mysterious Rennes Le Chateau (rumoured to once occupy the Holy Grail) and the hot pools at Rennes le Bain (about 2 hours away) a favourite spot of mine. Sharon a 'Holy Blood, Holy Grail' reader was very keen to see this spot, however, the mysterious Rennes Le Chateau proved even MORE mysterious as her wallet disappeared whilst there...Holy Shit!

We were very pragmatic about this and went through all necessary processes of cancelling everything...the MOST mysterious part about this was that the next day we received a phone call from the chateau to say they had found her wallet, complete with cards and cash....amazing!...we headed back the following day and had the exitement whilst purchasing the book of the mystery of Rennes Le Chateau, getting to meet the author, who owns the cafe/bar there. We have an open invitation for a tour in the future and it was very exciting to hear the legend first hand. We celebrated our good fortune with a swim in the thermal river...aaaaaahhhh as we watched the return of the sun

Other activites this week included, a drive to Lezignan for the market and lunch on the canal at Ventenac in the Minervois, taking Sharon to Carcassonne castle, complete with knights and jousting (much appreciated), and on Sunday, we had a huge day, firstly going to a large vide grenier at Cavenac, onto to the Chateau Saisacc ruins for a picnic lunch in the hills and then to Castelnaudry for the Cassoulet festival. The children were fantastic - now very used to the travelling life - and of course a few small purchases at the market go a long way!

This frenetic pace was starting to take its toll so slowed the pace a little the following week, with a couple of days spent working on our tans at the beach at Carcassonne Plage, lunch at the castle, some shopping in Carcassonne centre ville, and a visit to the beautiful La Grasse Abbey. Dropped Sharon and a bicycle at the canal at Trebes for a day of cycling on the canal. Returned to pick her up at five o'clock to find her accompanied by about 20 Kiwi's from various boats crusing the canal...all getting very merry at the bar on the canal...they came from all over New Zealand from Whangarei to Queenstown. Don't know how she found them all and I was literally booed as I dragged her away...but had to get home as we had dinner guests imminently arriving. Our English neighbour Martin, and newly arrived neighbour Sally were coming for dinner. Had a great night with many interesting stories of their adventures in France.

Prior to Sharon's arrival I was in the process of formulating an Evil Plan to arrange a rendezvous with the village's most eligible batchelor, our local vintner. Christian, a born and bread Montlaurian. He makes the most wonderful rose and even better reds. He has 11 hectares of vines on the outskirts of the village. He is also around his late forties, tall, attractive and a gentleman.......tick, tick, tick......Sadly for the first two weeks of Sharon's stay he was out of town, but once I had established he had returned...as any good friend would do, I started sending Sharon on a almost daily pilgrimage to his Cave for a couple of bottles of wine. It only took 4 bottles before my work was done and the wheels were in motion....however....the next episode of our adventures was about to temporarily divert us from Christian's world, as John was finally (after three weeks in London) scheduled to return to Carcassonne, and the girls were ready to some child free touring over the border to Spain.

I had begun to wonder over John's three week absence in the UK if he had in fact left me, but neglected to inform me of this ...or was perhaps too fearful to do so....(though I had heard of his forays to Prince and Dave Dobbyn concerts!) So when I arrived at the airport after dropping Sharon at the castle for some shopping to find no husband eagerly waiting for me, my concerns began to grow even further - or was U2 playing in London that night?

In typical French style there was a shoulder shrug and little else to explain and determine what had happened and what planned action there was in relation to Ryan Air's schedule that day. My improving French established that he was ...perhaps ...arriving...around four thirty. I was picking Sharon up at the castle at two thirty so took the children to one of the worlds most scenic playgrounds at the foot of the Carcassone Castle Cite...gorgeous. After picking up the Kamikaze shopper, went into centre ville for some more planned purchases (thank god we have a van).....arrived to the airport to find delayed flight now upgraded to a cancelled flight...............
The girls planned departure for Spain in the morning beginning to look ominously fragile.

Raced home as pretty sure John will have been trying all day to call me....mental note to add 'purchase of cellphone' to my list of 'to do's..........arrived in the door at ten to five and called John....he was relieved as had 10 minutes to secure a seat on a flight to Girona Spain leaving in an hour. Children fed and in bed at 8pm headed out the door for the 2 hour drive to Spain to pick up John....picked him up closer to eleven..and without even turning off the engine headed back for France. The drive home a lot faster with lots to catch up on after a three week absence, however some days are just plain difficult as on the fast route home through Fabrezan the road to Montlaur closed and at 2am in darkness and in the countryside tried to find an alternative countryroad to take us to our warm bed and much need toilet. Finally made it home and had 5 hours in bed before up and on the road and heading with Sharon TO SPAIN!

Headed zombie-like to the border, but one our english neighbour Sally had recommended we stop at the French seaside town Couilliere, this is about the most southern fishing village/town in France and was gorgeous. It was the home of Matisse, had a castle and fortress like harbour, and would be an absolute nightmare in peak season, but on this glorious sunny September day was absolutely perfect. Had a lovely seafood lunch by the sea and put on our bathers and soaked up the sea, sun and ambiance....feeling rejuvenated already. At about 5 pm departed and in a more determined fashion headed down the coastal road into Spain and on to another glorious seaside town Cadaques.

Arrived a couple of hours later, my companion a shade of green from the winding coastal road. Cadaques looked very busy with a steady stream of traffic heading into the one, winding road over the hills into the port....I was a bit concerned about accommodation and headed straight to the Tourist Information...to my relief and satisfaction the Hotel I had tried to book in to at Port Lligat had rooms avialable ...so back into the car and a further 10kms to this quiet seaside spot that harbours Dali's home on the seafront a couple of hotels and little else. Idealic. Freshened up and back to the buzzing Cadaques for dinner, a walk on the promenade and the added unexpected treat of a concert of traditional Spainish singers ( very mariachi like) on the beachfront....too perfect to describe.

The next day was a relaxed one, we visited Dali's incredible home and felt inspired and energised. To build on this we spent the afternoon lying by the pool at the hotel...the only guests to optimise this facility. The pool shut at 4 as preparations for a wedding that night underway. So the girls now well rested headed inland to the town Figures to visis Dali's museum....wow! It was mind blowing and thank you Katherine for visiting this in July and inspiring me to see both of these incredible places of Dali's life and works!

Sunday, rose early, after only a couple hours sleep due to previuosly mentioned Spainish wedding.A busy day planned heading back to France with a deadline to pick up our friend David arriving from London into Carcassone at 4pm. We took an adventurous route from Perpignan which took us past 2 of the '5 son Cathar Castles' Queribus and Puilaurens, breathtaking! Also stopped at a couple of brocantes...who will have been pleased they opened on a Sunday as 'some' purchases acquired. Our information that there was a vide grenier at Quillan proved to be inaccurate and after trying to stop for lunch at 3 restaurants for lunch but turned away as after 2:30 - feeling ready to reach the airport and get home....which along with our new guest we did.

On arrival home Christian was awaiting for our return at the house with John, plans were made for a dinner party the following night..and the next day Sharon and David toured Carcassonne Castle whilst the Fletts hung out at Carcassonne Plage. Then it was a race to the Supermarket and home to get dinner ready for 8 people. Christian and our neighbour Martin arrived, we all had a thoroughly entertaining evening on the roof terrace, with excellent food, company and an exquisite 16 year vintage Syrah provided by Christian from his personal cellar...romance blossomed and there was one less guest the next morning to share breakfast with.

On return to full guest complement, Sharon, David and I headed off for a huge day. John kindly played Dad and so that gave the trio an opportunity to really go for it. On Christian's advice we headed to the town Mirepoix, in another region called Ariege.This is a very scenic and almost Barvarian/Alpine-style village..had a pleasant lunch here then onto the very small village called Val where there is a wonderfully unique church carved from a cave in the hillside..an attraction that only a local could guide you too, making it all the more special. From here we continued south to the most signifcant Cathar castle Montsegur. Imposing, impressive and tragic, this being the last bastion of the Cathar faith and were 220 cathars were matyred on the stake. The walk up to the castle itself requires a little faith, and slower than usual with two heavy smokers...GIVE IT UP! We had visited earlier in our stay with Kayleanne and the children on a misty, atmospheric day. This time it was a beautiful clear day giving another perspective. After Montsegur we followed the circuit to Carcassonne on the way stopping at Rennes Le Chateau to show David this incredible place. Very luckily the author we had previously met popped into the bar and we were once again able to be entertained by his knowledge of the region and excellent sense of humour. Books were again purchased and signed....a very lucky and exciting opportunity. We briefly stopped at Rennes Le Bain and had hoped for a hot soak but the locals turn off the hot spring at five so were out of luck. The Day disappearing and a good idea to head for home....phew!

John, Maya, Will and Piper had excitement to match - well almost - with a close encounter with a snake down by the 'stream' that runs through the village. Maya especially finding this exciting as she mentioned that "if I'd gone with mummy I would have missed seeing the snake!" There was a funeral in town so John spent the next 30 minutes answering questions related to death and dying. Thankfully with parents who had met whilst working in a cemetery (explains a lot!) he had sufficient answers.

Wednesday, required a slower pace after the previous day. Sharon and David were leaving France tomorrow and so a gentle day planned. The weather perfect and we headed to one of France's 10 most beautiful villages - our neighbouring village LaGrasse. Our guests took the Fletts out for lunch, and then toured the village and Abbey, we blissed out on our mellow mood from the carafe with lunch and soaked in the natural beauty of the LaGrasse river adjacent to the 800year old abbey..Maya, Will and Piper thoroughly enjoying the warm river - what more could you want!

Sharon and David's last evening was occupied by a guided tour by Christian, of a mountain walk of local scupltures followed by another dinner on the roof (fab of course).
Martin popped in and stayed and we had a very impromptu dinner party.....The new romance of Sharon and Christian giddy and poignant as farewells imminent!

The morning resulted in a rush of packing and farewells. Sharon miraculously packing all into suitcases although additional postie plus bag required. John drove the distance to Toulouse airport ..and once again our little house in Montlaur quiet....but not for long as our next visitors Suzie Derek and Luca are to accompany John from London to Carcassonne next Wednesday.......so watch this space for some more adventures!